Turtuk, a remote village in the Ladakh region, is not just a place of stunning natural beauty; it is a microcosm of history, culture, and ancient traditions. Nestled in the Shyok Valley, this village has long been a crossroads of cultures, religions, and empires, each leaving its mark on the land and its people. Among the most intriguing aspects of Turtuk’s history are the differing theories about its early inhabitants and the origins of its leaders, Chuli and Yangdrung. These theories provide insight into the complex and multifaceted history of Turtuk, a village that has seen the rise and fall of empires and the blending of diverse cultural influences.
The Theories of Turtuk’s Early History: Brogpas and the Arrival of Chuli and Yangdrung
One prominent theory suggests that the earliest known inhabitants of Turtuk were the Brogpas, a Dardic tribe believed to have migrated from Chilas, a region now in Pakistan. The Brogpas, known for their distinct cultural and linguistic heritage, are thought to have lived in Turtuk from an unknown time until around the 11th century AD. According to this theory, the arrival of two warriors ( Some believes they came from Kufa and believed to be decedent of the Umayyad dynasty while other believes they were Mongols) , Chuli and Yangdrung, marked a significant turning point in the village’s history. These warriors are said to have killed the local king, leading to the exodus of the Brogpas, who fled to other regions, including the villages now known as Hanu, Dah, and Domkhar. Today, many of Turtuk’s inhabitants are believed to be the direct descendants of Chuli and Yangdrung.
Drawbacks :
- But many residents believe that this theory is not more then just a conspiracy against the indigenous people of Turtuk set up by the migrators who settle letter in the region, as the people of Kufa or Bani Umayya are most hated people in the Islamic world and giving the tag to Chuli and Yangdrung in a region like Baltistan where mostly people are Shia or Nurbaksha clearly indicates it.
- The falsification of the Kufa narrative proved when the genetic analysis of the people who belongs to the the Yangdrung or Chuli tribe suggest that they are more close to Manchurians, Tibetans and Mongolians.
- According to the narration, the name of the people of the Kharpon were Aziz, Jaan etc which seems to be illogical in a Tibetan region before the arrival of Islam.
- The Kharpon was said to be killed with a “Machadaar”( a sort of sniper ), which can’t be trace in the 11th century.
- Chuli and Yangdrung never ruled the region but instead they preferred their tribal way of life.
An Alternative Perspective: Chuli and Yangdrung as the Original Brogpas
A contrasting theory suggests that Chulipas and Yangdrungpas themselves were the original inhabitants of the region, belonging to a tribal or nomadic group. This perspective posits that Chuli and Yangdrung were not external invaders but rather part of the region’s indigenous population. The term “Brogpa” in the Balti language refers to nomads or pastoral people, which aligns with the idea that Chuli and Yangdrung were deeply rooted in the region’s early history.
According to this theory, during the 16th century, the region came under the control of the Skardu Kingdom during the reign of Ali Sher Khan Anchan, a prominent ruler who expanded his influence over Baltistan. The kingdom appointed a “Kharpon,” or governor, and twelve leaders known as “Trangpa Chones” to oversee the administration of Turtuk and its surrounding areas and to defend the Ladakh border, along with that a Dardic group from gilget were settled in turtuk, and adjoing villages of hanu in the indus vally to defend his kingdom from any counter attack from the Ladakhi side, and it is evident through oral histry that even the when the Mughuls tried to attack the kingdom of Skardu they also tried to conquer the Turtuk fort but invain. Kharpon enforced the rule of the Skardu Kingdom, leading to significant changes in the region’s social and political landscape.
As the Skardu Kingdom imposed its authority, the local population, including the descendants of Chulipas and Yangdrungpas, faced increasing pressure. They attempted to settle in nearby areas such as Kuwas, where they tried to build an irrigation canal to sustain their agriculture, but these efforts were unsuccessful. The imposition of the Kharpon and the Trangpa Chones disrupted the traditional way of life, leading to discontent among the local people.
The Revolt Against the Kharpon: A Struggle for Independence
As time passed and in the earlier 17th century , the once-powerful Skardu Kingdom weakened due to internal conflicts between the sons of Ali Sher Khan Anchan, namely Abdal Khan and Adam Khan and civil wars that followed the death of Ali Sher Khan Anchan. Sensing an opportunity, the Kharpon of Turtuk declared himself an independent king, severing ties with the now-fragmented Skardu Kingdom. This act of defiance marked a pivotal moment in Turtuk’s history, as the Kharpon sought to establish his rule over the region.
However, when Chuli and Yangdrung, the tribal leaders believed to have been displaced by the Kharpon’s rule, learned of the situation, they saw an opportunity to reclaim their ancestral lands. According to this theory, Chuli and Yangdrung launched an attack on the fort controlled by the Kharpon, with the help of the kingdom of Khapulu and the people of tyakshi village. As per the narration launched the attack when they learned form the people of Tyakshi that the Kharpon went for a polo match at the historical pologround of kharpon thang, the narration also suggest that they used advance weapon like Machadaar and prepared their thfence at Grongi Zur , and when the kharpon reached at Gen Kan ( the name came after the death of the kharpon their as Gen means Lord, Kan means rest ) they killed the kharpon and and the Pa Chonis , the narration suggests that their name were the names of some of the pachonis were Aziz, Jan etc as the places where they killed are named after them. In a decisive battle, they defeated the Kharpon and recaptured the region, restoring their influence over Turtuk.
This version of events paints Chuli and Yangdrung not as external conquerors but as rightful heirs reclaiming their homeland. Their victory over the Kharpon represents a return to local governance and the restoration of the region’s indigenous leadership. At the same time some evidents suggest that this theory is more close to history.
Drawback :
- According to this theory, the history can only be trace up to 4-5 hundred years.
- It cannot justify the influence of bonism and budhism in the region which is evident during the excavation of the old mosque of Turtuk.
The Ruined Fort of Turtuk: A Testament to Its Turbulent Past
“What ever the history may be, it is proven that turtuk has a
deep root in the history of the region, and is one of the oldest civilisations
having a diverse and unpredictable history in the narrow valleys of the
Himalayas”
One of the most significant historical landmarks in Turtuk is the ruined fort, which stands as a silent witness to the village’s turbulent past. The fort, now in ruins, is believed to have been the stronghold of the Kharpon during the time of the Skardu Kingdom’s rule. It is here that the battle between the Kharpon and Chuli and Yangdrung is said to have taken place. The fort’s ruins offer a glimpse into the strategic importance of Turtuk in the region’s history and the enduring legacy of its early leaders.
The fort is not just a relic of Turtuk’s past but also a symbol of the village’s resilience and the complex power dynamics that have shaped its history. Whether one subscribes to the theory of Chuli and Yangdrung as external warriors or indigenous leaders, the fort remains a key piece of evidence in understanding the village’s historical narrative.
The Influence of External Powers: The Maqpon and Yabgo Dynasties
Turtuk’s history did not end with the defeat of the Kharpon. The village continued to be a point of contention for various external powers. After the era of Chuli and Yangdrung, Turtuk came under the influence of the Maqpon dynasty of Skardu, a powerful ruling family that controlled much of Baltistan. The Maqpons left their mark on Turtuk through various structures and cultural practices that are still evident today.
The Maqpon influence was eventually supplanted by the Yabgo dynasty of Khaplu, particularly during the post-Dogra invasion era. The Yabgos ruled over Turtuk and its surrounding areas, further contributing to the village’s rich and diverse cultural heritage.
Turtuk in Modern Times: Liberation and Tourism
Turtuk’s modern history is marked by its strategic importance during the 1971 Indo-Pak War. After being occupied by Pakistan following the partition of India in 1947, Turtuk was liberated by Indian forces in December 1971. This victory secured the region and brought Turtuk under Indian administration.
In December 1971, Indian forces, led by Major Chewang Rinchen, launched a daring attack on the Pakistani defenses in the region. The Indian troops advanced through steep mountainous paths, taking the enemy by surprise. By December 14, 1971, Turtuk was liberated and became part of India. This victory secured the region and marked a significant moment in the history of Turtuk.
Today, the area around Turtuk is known as Sub-Sector Hanif, in honor of Lieutenant Hanif-ud-Din, an Indian Army officer who was martyred during the 1999 Kargil War.
In 2011, Turtuk was opened to tourists, allowing visitors to explore its unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty. The village has since become a popular destination in Ladakh, attracting travelers with its stunning landscapes, rich cultural traditions, and historical landmarks.
Cultural Festivals and Traditions
The people of Turtuk belong to the Balti community, a Tibetan Muslim ethnic group that has lived in the region for centuries. The Balti people are known for their rich cultural traditions, which are celebrated with great zeal during festivals such as Novroz, Nimajuk Pi Metoh, Pangang, and Chulimendok. These festivals offer visitors a glimpse into the vibrant cultural life of Turtuk and are a testament to the village’s enduring cultural heritage.
explore more about the feasts and festivals here
A Village of Unparalleled Beauty and History
Turtuk is primarily divided into two parts by a stream: Youl and Farol. Youl is considered to be the oldest part of the village, with its name meaning “town” in the local Balti language. Chuthang and Gradadi are also part of the village, each with its own unique charm. The village expands through four nallahs (valleys), but only 20% of Turtuk is accessible to tourists. The remaining 80% remains largely unexplored, adding to the village’s allure as a destination for intrepid travelers.
A Living Legacy: The Deep Historical Roots
Turtuk is a village where history is not merely a backdrop but a living, breathing presence. The complex interplay of theories regarding its early history—whether one believes in the migration of the Brogpas or sees Chuli and Yangdrung as the region’s original inhabitants—only adds to the richness of Turtuk’s narrative. This village has seen the rise of tribal leaders, the imposition of external rulers, and the eventual reclaiming of its autonomy. The ruined fort, the stories of Chuli and Yangdrung, and the layered religious influences all contribute to a tapestry that is as intricate as it is fascinating.
What stands out in Turtuk’s history is the resilience and determination of its people, who have navigated through various phases of rule and cultural shifts to maintain their unique identity. Whether as a stronghold under the Maqpon dynasty or as a liberated village post-1971, Turtuk has continually adapted and thrived, blending its ancient traditions with the realities of modern life.
Conclusion
Turtuk is not just a village; it is a living testament to the resilience of its people and the complexity of its history. The stories of Chuli and Yangdrung, whether as conquerors or rightful heirs, reflect a community that has continually fought to preserve its identity amidst external pressures. The village’s rich cultural heritage, from the Brogpas to the Balti traditions, and its strategic significance in modern history make it a place of unparalleled historical depth and beauty.
Exploring Turtuk is like peeling back layers of time, where each story, each structure, and each festival tells of a different era. Whether you are drawn by its history, its stunning landscapes, or its vibrant culture, Turtuk offers a journey through a past that is
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